Ah, Tik Tok strikes again.

I'm not usually one for viral skincare trends, but the principles behind the latest Skin Cycling fad seem reasonably sound.

So let's talk about it!

What is it?

Skin Cycling is method of spacing out your more aggressive actives over two nights, then giving your skin two recovery days. 

It usually goes something like this:

Night One - Exfoliant (usually chemical, like lactic or glycolic acid)

Night Two - Retinoid/Retinol

Night Three & Night Four - Recovery

 

What's the point?

Ok, so I just want to preface by saying that there isn't really any hard data to back up any of these claims, but the guiding principles make sense, so here it goes:

1) Exfoliants and retinols/retinoids are both very aggressive actives and can compromise your moisture barrier and irritate your skin. Spacing them out decreases your chances of irritation.

2) By exfoliating that first night, you're removing a portion of the stratum corneum (layer of dead skin cells that sits on the surface of the skin) so when you're applying your retinol on night two, it will penetrate the skin better because it's not having to fight through excess dead cells. This should (in theory) result in higher efficacy for your retinol products. 

3) Giving your skin two nights to recover ensures that your moisture barrier has time to repair itself after being compromised by your more aggressive actives. This leads to overall better skin health and should give you happier, more resilient skin in the long term.

4) Using different products on different nights can prevent your skin from "acclimating" to products too quickly and going into a plateau phase. There's mixed reviews on whether or not this is a "thing" that actually happens, but there's enough anecdotal evidence to suggest it might be true. The fact that you're introducing a wider variety of ingredients by using a variety of products could bolster this claim, because it means you're skin's "diet" has a wider variety of good things. 

 

My results

I wanted to try this for a few reasons. Mostly, because it seems legit enough, and I really believe in retinols and chemical exfoliants (when they're used properly). But also because I have very dry, very sensitive, rosacea-prone skin, so I have to be VERY careful about how I handle my moisture barrier and what actives I use and when.

I've been happy with my results so far, and I like the consistency of the routine. It's been easy for me to maintain.

Something that I've found helpful is using a different moisturizer on nights when I use the actives.

I use a super occlusive, healing-oriented cream on Night One and Night Two, and switch to a slightly less occlusive, "nutritional" type cream for nights Three and Four.

Note: I still use my base skincare products every night (double cleanse with Milky Melt-Away Balm and White Willow Gel, Hyaluronic Mist and Dew Drops Serum)

I just pop in the Chemical Exfoliant (after cleansing, before toner and serum) or the Retinol (after toner and serum, before moisturizer) at the appropriate stage on their designated nights.

I use our Fruit Glow Exfoliating Toner from VO Beauty OR the Superfruit AHA Mask from Three Ships as my Chemical Exfoliant (Glow Tonic from Pixi and The Ordinary Glycolic Toners were WAY too harsh for my skin and I had irritation almost immediately)

For Retinol, I use The Ordinary 1% Retinol in Squalane (if you've never used retinols before, PLEASE move slowly and properly research how to integrate it into your routine and build up your tolerance. It can cause a lot of harm if mishandled) 

Here's what my Skin Cycle looks like:

Night One:

Double Cleanse - massage Milky Melt-Away Balm onto dry skin, add water to emulsify into milk, rinse off and then wash with White Willow Gel Cleanser

Exfoliate - apply Fruit Glow Serum directly on face (I find toner pads soak up too much product) and let dry

Toner & Serum - spritz face with my HA mist and apply one juicy drop of Dew Drops while skin is damp from toner (helps with absorption and helps the serum spread)

Facial Oil - lymphatic drainage facial massage with Blume Skin Therapy Oil (my fave is from @drlindseyschmidt. You can find it in her Reels. I have no idea if it changes the shape of your face lol it just feels amazing and is a fun way to apply an oil) We'll be getting this oil in shortly!

Moisturizer - massage First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream all over face and neck

Night Two:

Double Cleanse - same as previous, but will use Konjac Sponge to remove my gel cleanser

Toner & Serum - same as previous

Retinol - swipe three drops of The Ordinary 1% Retinol over my face and neck, then pat gently into skin (avoiding cheeks if I'm having a rosacea flare up)

Facial Oil - same as previous

Moisturizer - same as previous

Night Three & Night Four:

Double Cleanse - same as previous

Toner & Serum - same as previous

Facial Oil - same as previous

Moisturizer - massage BKIND Superfruit or Farmacy Honey Potion into face and neck.

 

So if you're feeling up to it, break your products into these groups and give it a try!

Happy Cycling xo

There are a million reasons a product may (or may not) work for us.

Between skin type, sensitivities, and a myriad of other things that make your skin YOUR skin, finding the right fit can be complicated.

But sometimes, a product may not be working simply because we're not using it the way it's supposed to be used, and we end up giving up on something that may have done us good in the long run.

Before you throw something away, read this post all the way through to know that you've given it a fair chance at winning you over.

 

FREQUENCY

1. Oil Cleansers

- at night only if you're wearing makeup or sunscreen, or if you have DESPERATELY oily skin

- in the morning only if you wore an extremely heavy overnight mask the night before

- ALWAYS follow your oil cleanser with a surfactant cleanser (Read our post on why) unless your skin is debilitatingly dry and you cannot use surfactant cleansers without causing irritation and you know for a fact it's not because you're using the wrong surfactant cleanser for your skin. 

2. Surfactant Cleansers

- on it's own at night if you're not wearing makeup or sunscreen

- in the morning if you're very oily and your skin is unmanageable without it (otherwise a rinse with lukewarm water and/or a wash cloth is enough)

3. Toners

- morning and night

- apply using gauze instead of cotton pads to avoid product waste

- use to dampen skin to allow better absorption for following products

4. Chemical Peel/Chemical Exfoliants

- only at night and only on clean skin

- once a week at first, then 2-3 times a week as your skin becomes used to it

- allow 3-5 minutes for full absorption before moving on to next step

- ALWAYS use a good moisturizer (preferably a cream) when using a peel

- ALWAYS rinse/wash your face the morning after you use a peel

4. Manual/Mechanical Exfoliants

- max 2-3 times a week (less if you use chemical peels and/or if your skin shows signs of irritation or over drying)

- morning or night optional

- always use a good moisturizer (preferably a cream) to protect the fresh layer of skin

- use serums and masks after exfoliating in order to get the deepest product penetration

5. Serums

- morning and night (Vitamin C preferably at night. Retinol only at night)

- damp skin is best (except for Retinol. Dry skin only for Retinols or it will penetrate too deeply and cause damage)

- decrease frequency of Vitamin C or Retinol serums if skin becomes irritated

- allow 3-5 minutes for full absorption before next step

- don't use chemical peels and Vitamin C/Retinol serums on the same night if skin is prone to irritation

6. Facial Oil

- morning and night for dry skin, night only for normal/combo/oily skin

- use for facial massage or to lubricate facial tools such as rollers and gua sa stones

- combine with moisturizing lotions and creams to give extra boost

7. Moisturizing Creams & Lotions

- morning AND night (lighter consistency for day time, heavier consistency at night time) without exception

- if skin feels tight within 1-4 hours after moisturizer has been applied, add facial oil to the cream OR purchase a heavier moisturizer 

8. Overnight Masks

- at night 2-3 times a week when dry, once a week when not

- ALWAYS wash face the morning after a heavy overnight mask

9. Masks

- once a week to maintain skin health OR when needed to treat a certain concern (i.e. charcoal mask during a breakout, brightening mask when skin is looking a bit dull)

- not more than 2 masks a week to prevent your skin from being overwhelmed

10. Treatments

- only when needed to deal with acute issues

- do not use strong treatments "preventatively" as they are not designed for prolonged every day use and will probably stress out your skin (proper skin care is the best preventative measure)

 

ORDER

The general "rule" to keep in mind is from thinnest consistency to thickest consistency, with occlusive products like creams putting the "seal" overtop and locking it all in. 

1. Oil Cleanser

2. Surfactant Cleanser

3. Manual Exfoliant

4. Mask (if you're doing one)

3. Toner

4. Chemical Exfoliant 

5. Serum

6. Spot Treatment

7. Facial Oil

8. Moisturizer OR Overnight Mask

 

I know it seems like a lot, but let me encourage you (nay, implore you) to NOT use all these products and steps everyday.

Our skin can't take it.

Find a solid "every day" regimen with 3-5 products that makes your skin happy and healthy.

Once that regimen has been established, start adding on, and add on sparingly and with time in between until you have a "weekly" regimen, and eventually a "monthly" one. 

If your skin shows ANY signs of stress (redness, irritation, inflammation, unexplainable breakouts, dryness or flaking) it means you need to slow down and reevaluate.

Read our blog on How To Build A Regimen if you're curious about how to build or add on to your skincare regimen safely and effectively. 

 

I know it's a lot to take in, but if we're going to invest in product, we have to make it work for us! No point buying a car and never learning to drive, right?

 

Talk soon!

-L xo

It's really easy to get restless with our skincare.

I get ants in my pants 2-3 times a year, and with all the exciting new developments and formulas I want to either add a hundred new products or throw out my whole regimen and start again.

I will tell you now, BOTH of those are terrible ideas lol

Adding a ton of new products at once can send your skin into a complete freak out, and buying a whole new regimen at once is not only expensive, but risky if you don't know 100% what works for your skin. 

Also, if your current regiment isn't working, make sure you've reviewed our Healthy Skin Basics (That Have Nothing To Do With Skincare) to make sure there aren't underlying issues at work.

Here are my suggestions for building, adding to or swapping out your regimen.

1. Replace products as they run out

UNLESS they are harming your skin. 

For example, if you're using a cleanser that makes your skin super tight and leaves it dry and irritated, go get yourself a new cleanser ASAP.

If you have a bad reaction to a product, stop using it. 

But if something is working ok for you, you just know you could do better, start looking into what you might want to replace it with. Maybe even get yourself a sample to try, so when it runs out you know EXACTLY what to buy. 

This is the most affordable option as you'll run out of different products at different times so the spending will stagger itself out. 

It also allows you to introduce one new product at a time so you have a clear idea of how this one new product impacts your skin (for better or for worse)

2. Adding on to an existing regimen

If you're a skincare beginner and you just have a cleanser and a moisturizer, but you're looking to kick it up a notch, I would suggest looking into the following products (in this order)

First, a good serum

Oh sweet, sweet serums. This power-packed-punch of active ingredients that gets carried into the deepest level of your skin will usually offer the most immediate results, as they are concentrated and highly effective.

It's also why they're the most expensive. But boy, are they worth it. 

They are targeted by skin concern, so grab one that treats a pesky issue you can't seem to beat with your other products (dullness, dryness, dark spots etc)

** NOTE** OILS ARE NOT SERUMS! I see them labelled that way sometimes and it makes me squirm. Serums should be WATER BASED! That's how they get so deep into the skin. Please read our blog on serums before you invest, and save yourself from buying the wrong thing and getting frustrated. **END RANT**

Second, an acid exfoliant/peel.

They are sometimes listed as "toners" but anything with a high concentration of AHA or BHA (alpha-hydroxy acids or beta-hydroxy acids) is designed to be chemically exfoliate your skin by eating off the top layer of dead skin that's clogging your pores and making your skin look dull.

Sounds gross, but SO effective. Next to serums, they will give you the most immediately noticeable change in your complexion. And you only have to use them 2-3 times a week.

(And no, you may not use a facial scrub instead. Those bad boys don't even come close) 

 

Once you've got a great serum and a great chemical exfoliant, you can start wandering down the other skincare avenues .

If you don't already have a day moisturizer AND a night moisturizer, that's a good place to go next. (Read our blog on moisturizers to figure out the difference)

Or grab yourself a beautiful face oil to use for facial massage or with your facial tools. You can also boost up your moisturizer with 2-3 drops of oil for an extra shot of hydration and nourishment. 

A konjac sponge is the perfect gentle exfoliation experience, and facial masks can be used weekly to treat different concerns or just give your skin a hearty boost.  

Lastly, masks and treatments are a great way to treat individual concerns on a weekly basis. Some people (myself included) will multi-mask and treat different areas of their faces with different types of masks. You can read more about that here in our posts on masks and treatments. 

3. Building a regimen from scratch

If you really are starting from ground zero and you really want to go guns blazing with a whole regimen, I can't stop you. But I can help you!

First stop, a good cleanser AND a good moisturizer. 

You CANNOT have a good regimen without these two foundational items. 

Skin must be clean, and it must be hydrated. 

What types of products you get will depend on your skin type (you can read all our blogs on the various products and skin types and how they all relate) but don't take these steps lightly.

If you wear makeup or sunscreen, you'll need an oil cleanser and a surfactant (gel or milk) cleanser in order to do a double cleanse (read about why you've just gotta double cleanse here)

Then the right moisturizer for your skin type. Preferably a day cream and a night cream, because your skin has different needs at different times of the day. Or at least a facial oil to add to your day cream at night for extra nourishment. 

Skin that is properly cleansed and hydrated will begin to show dramatic signs of health and improvement. Better elasticity, clarity and tone, breakouts should become less frequent and clear up faster. 

From there, refer to the above 2. Adding To An Existing Regimen to decide what to add and where to go from there. 

 

No matter what you choose to do, make sure to only introduce ONE product at a time. That way, if you have a bad reaction, you know exactly which product to blame. And if you see great improvement, you don't have to try and guess which product your skin is responding well to. 

Once you've been using something happily for 1-2 weeks, you can add in something else. 

 

Here are some examples of different regimens:

BASIC

1) Cleanser (Oil & Surfactant)

2) Moisturizer 

INTERMEDIATE

1) Cleanser (Oil & Surfactant)

2) Serum and/or Chemical Exfoliant

3) Moisturizer (Day Cream & Night Cream)

ADVANCED

1) Cleanser (Oil & Surfactant)

2) Chemical Exfoliant

3) Serum 

5) Moisturizer (Day Cream & Night Cream. Facial Oil optional)

6) Weekly Masking

PRO

1) Cleanser (Oil & Surfactant)

2) Chemical Exfoliant & Manual Exfoliant

3) Serum (at least 2 targeting different concerns)

4) Toner

5) Moisturizer (Day Cream & Night Cream. Facial Oil optional)

6) Weekly Masking

 

Did you purchase any of these but you're unsure when and how often to use them? Check out our post on Product Order and Frequency!

Cheers to your beautiful face!

Love,

- L xo

So your skin is an unhappy camper.

Maybe you’re getting a ton of breakouts, or suddenly your cheeks are red and irritated, or your skin just looks matte and dull and sullen. 

Maybe you’re forehead is tight and your nose is flaky, or maybe the opposite and you’re the oiliest you’ve ever been.

 

“I need a new skincare regimen!” you exclaim.

And hey, you might be right. 

But first, let’s look at some factors that might be contributing to your grumpy complexion that have nothing to do with topical skincare.

1. HORMONES

Track your breakouts. Do they happen just before or the first few days of your period? Did you just start a new hormonal contraceptive? Breakouts that stem from hormonal fluctuations (usually found on the chin and jaw) are very normal! And sadly not super preventable.

However, healthy skin rebounds faster and will heal the breakout quickly, so take care of your skin all month long and these once a month eruptions will leave as quickly as they come. (A good spot treatment never hurt anyone though…)

2. MEDICATION

Is it a side effect of any medication you might be on? Did you just finish a round of antibiotics? Any disruption to your internal ecosystem can show up on your skin. Focus on your gut health with probiotics and drink LOTS of water to help bring your body back to it’s happy place.

Some medication can suppress your immune system and/or cause inflammation, and pimples are just an inflammatory immune response to a teeny tiny infection in your pore. So focus on giving your body what it needs to get back to it’s best self before you dump money on skincare. 

3. WATER INTAKE

Your skin is 64% water and needs constant internal hydration in order to be at it’s best. No matter how expensive your moisturizer is, it can’t compensate for lack of water from INSIDE the body. Dehydration leads to inflammation, which is your skin's major enemy (you’ll hear me talk about inflammation a lot, so just ride with me) and leaves it ill-equipped to handle environmental stressors.

Drink. More. Water. (I'm serious)

4. SLEEP

Your skin does most of its regenerating at night, but you have to be asleep for that to happen. And for a long time.

A study in the journal Clinical and Experimental Dermatology found that people who slept seven to nine hours a night had skin that was not only better hydrated, but that could also protect and heal itself better after being exposed to UV light compared to those who slept five hours or less. 

Woah. 

Blood flow to the skin in your face is highest during sleep as well, which is why your skin looks more lively and rosy after a good night's sleep. So don’t miss out on this killer opportunity!!

5. DIET

Now, this is still highly anecdotal in regards to evidence, but a lot of people say they have a reduction in breakouts and redness when they cut certain foods.

Dairy, wheat and refined sugar are usually what people claim to be the most helpful to eliminate, but any food that causes inflammation in your system or that could contain hormones are possible culprits.

I mostly see it from a holistic perspective in the sense that your skin is an organ that is part of your body’s ecosystem. If you’re not feeding your body with the foods it needs to be well, it will show up everywhere, including your skin. 

I will just say that I'm not willing to comment on dietary supplements, vitamins, powders or elixirs that say they can improve your hair or skin. I'd need to see some studies, but these industries are unregulated so I always recommend doing your own independent research, which means looking for journals and studies, and not articles published or sponsored by people who sell supplements (lol) I can't even find two articles that agree on whether or not adding collagen to your coffee will denature the collagen and render it useless, so this whole area is up to your discretion. 

6. STRESS

Oiy, the S-Word. The drain on your system that comes from stress is immense, and your skin doesn't get away unscathed. Stress makes your body pump out a hormone called Cortisol which, among other things, tells your skin to increase oil production. It also suppresses your immune system, which can cause all sorts of conditions to flare up. Eczema, psoriasis, cold sores to name a few. But if all that extra oil gives you a breakout, your reduced immune system isn't as available to squash it. 

The effect of the mind and mood on skin is becoming such an area of interest, there is now a branch of study called psychodermatology. 

So yeah, it's a thing. 

7. MASKS

Ah, the dreaded maskne. Or if you don’t get the breakouts, maybe your skin is just red and inflamed from the constant friction. If you’re able to, switch to a 100% silk mask with a replaceable filter pocket (we carry some beautiful locally made ones). Silk is a highly effective mask material and is gentle on the skin.

Whatever mask you use, make sure you're changing it and washing it frequently and with hypoallergenic detergent so you don’t irritate the skin with the soap you use. 

So!

These are the major players at work behind the scenes to either help or hinder the health and appearance of your skin.

Until you're able to commit at least a LITTLE bit to getting them in order, there’s only so much topical skincare can do for you.

Did you know you may not actually know your real skin type until these areas have been sorted out? 

It's hard to know what kind of skincare products you need until you know how your skin behaves without all the above stressors interfering with it's natural function. So try and tackle one of these things at a time.

Because healthy skin does truly start from the inside out! 

Love,

-L xo

Ah, the famous double cleanse. 

If you know, you know.

And if you don’t know, you’ve probably heard of it.

And if you’ve never heard of it, then you’re about to.

Some women swear by it day and night.

I’m not nearly as hardcore, but if I wear makeup or sunscreen during the day, you couldn’t PAY me to skip out on my double-cleanse. 

Let me break it down for you and answer some questions...

Q: So do I just wash my face twice with the same cleanser?

A: NO! Hard no. A double cleanse uses two specific TYPES of cleansers and in a specific ORDER.

Step One: The Oil Cleanser

Product:

Cleansing oil, cleansing balm, or any other OIL based cleanser

How To:

1) Massage a small amount of oil/balm into areas with the most makeup (i.e. mascara, liquid liner, lipstick) until mostly dissolved

2) Wipe away the gross mess (and it will be gross) of liquified makeup with toilet paper, cotton pad or reusable round. Wipe your fingers too, while you’re at it.

3) Massage a larger amount of oil/balm all over the face, revisiting the places you’ve already gone over once. And don’t be shy, really massage it. Don’t PULL your skin, but the friction of the massage will help emulsify the makeup into the cleanser, which is what you want.

4) Rinse off with warm water

Why This Works:

Makeup and most sunscreens are traditionally OIL based products. It’s how they stay on your skin all day long. Even oil-free formulations have tough-to-break-down bases to keep them in place. To REALLY disrupt and remove these products from your face, you must use an oil based cleanser. 

Like attracts like. The oil in the cleanser, when massaged into the skin, will begin to blend, break up and lift up the other oil-based products. 

(P.S. if you have oily or acne prone skin and you’re afraid of oil-based products, please read this blog on that very topic and put yourself at ease)

Q: Sounds great. Why can’t I just stop there?

A: Oil is HYDROPHOBIC which means it’s repels water (which you already know, hence the oil-and-water analogy we all use) so when you rinse your face with water, you might get some of it off, but there’s no way to remove it ALL with water alone. And remember, it's not just oil cleanser, it's all the gunk you just blended INTO the oil cleanser, so you really want it all gone. 

“Well then how the heck do I get it all off?!” you ask?

I’ll tell you how.

ENTER THE DOUBLE-CLEANSE!

Step Two: The Surfactant Cleanser

Product: Gel cleanser, cleansing milk or any other SURFACTANT cleanser (see our blog post on Cleansers for how to tell if a cleanser contains surfactants)

How To:

1) Wet your face and massage a quarter sized amount of cleanser all over

2) Be thorough in your massage, and focus especially on breakout-prone areas and places on your face that needed extra oil cleanser

3) Rinse face clean with warm water

4) Gently towel dry

Why This Works:

A surfactant is essentially a fancy word for a compound that FORCES oil to bond to or dissolve in water. It’s found in soaps and detergents, but much milder versions are used in skincare. At least they should be. If drugstore cleansers are leaving your face stripped, tight, irritated or dry, it’s because they use cheaper and harsher surfactants and you should look to invest in a better quality cleanser. (Nudges you again to our blog on Cleansers)

The surfactant cleanser will grab ahold of what’s left behind of the oil cleanser (and the melted makeup emulsion) and when it’s rinsed away, you’ll be left with a TRULY clean face. 

Q: If surfactants get rid of oil, why can’t I just use that to remove my makeup?

A: You can. And it will...kind of work? But never as well, and never as thoroughly. Like I said, nothing breaks down oil-based products like oil-based cleansers. And if you’re someone with sensitive or breakout prone skin, you should always be looking for the most thorough clean possible. 

The two pillars of skin health are CLEAN skin and HYDRATED skin.

Every regimen is built on top of that foundation, so don’t be skimpy!

Mind you, if you’re not wearing makeup or sunscreen, and unless you have DESPERATELY oily skin, the double-cleanse isn’t necessary every night. If you don’t have a lot of oil to break down, you don’t need the oil cleanser.

On a normal, makeup-free day, feel free to only use your surfactant cleanser (another reason to invest in a good one, because it’s the one you’ll use most often). 

If you use a super heavy overnight mask you may want to double-cleanse in the morning as well, but I’ll leave that up to you. 

Otherwise, my verdict on the Double Cleanse: WORTH THE HYPE!

Happy cleansing,

-L xo

Shop Our Oil-Based Cleansers:

1. Milky Meltaway Balm (VO Beauty) $45
2. Cleansing Balm (Midnight Paloma) $49
3. NOURISH Oil (Niu Body) $20
4. CLARIFY Oil (Niu Body) $20

Shop Our Surfactant Cleansers:

1. Purify Gel Cleanser (Three Ships Beauty) $
2. Refresh Gel Cleanser (Three Ships Beauty) $
3. Seas The Day Gel Cleanser (Wyld Beauty) $35
4. Detox Charcoal Soap (Bare Skin Bar) $9
5. Pink Exfoliating Soap (Bare Skin Bar) $9
6. Creamy Mild Soap (Bare Skin Bar) $9